Skin science article
Numbuzin 9+ NAD Bio Lifting-Sil Essence Versus Educated Mess Freeze Frame Peptide Serum Concentrate
Numbuzin 9+ NAD Bio Lifting-Sil Essence Versus Educated Mess Freeze Frame Peptide Serum Concentrate This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging serum is formulat
Numbuzin 9+ NAD Bio Lifting-Sil Essence Versus Educated Mess Freeze Frame Peptide Serum Concentrate
This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Resveratrol and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Polyglycerin-3
Butylene Glycol
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Propanediol
Dimethicone
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Methylpropanediol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sodium Polyacrylate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Carbomer
Xanthan Gum
Pentylene Glycol
Tromethamine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Sodium Phytate
Cholesterol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Adenosine Triphosphate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Beta-Glucan
Tocopherol
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Copper Gluconate
Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment
Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment
Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment
Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment
Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment
Capryloyl Dipeptide-17
Thioctic Acid
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Glutathione
Tremella Fuciformis Extract
Haematococcus Pluvialis Oil
Potassium Hydroxide
Resveratrol
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone
Sorbitan Laurate
Steareth-20
Astaxanthin
Sodium Lactate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12
Panthenol
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Citrate
Chlorhexidine Digluconate
Dextran
Hexapeptide-2
Magnesium Chloride
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Dipeptide-2
Potassium Sorbate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Citric Acid
Biotin
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3
Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Dipeptide-4
Hexapeptide-11
Pentapeptide-18
Tripeptide-3
Sh-Decapeptide-7
Sh-Octapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide
Hexapeptide-9
Oligopeptide-3
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Ubiquinone
Copper Tripeptide-1
Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1
Caffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4
Galloyl Pentapeptide-33
Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23
Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1
Octapeptide-7
Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Decapeptide-9
Sh-Oligopeptide-9
Sh-Pentapeptide-19
Asparagine
Glutamine
Tryptophan
Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-22
Sh-Polypeptide-3
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Carnosine
Nonapeptide-1
Water, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Polyglycerin-3, Butylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Cholesterol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine Triphosphate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Beta-Glucan, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Copper Gluconate, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Capryloyl Dipeptide-17, Thioctic Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glutathione, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Resveratrol, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Sorbitan Laurate, Steareth-20, Astaxanthin, Sodium Lactate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, Panthenol, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Citrate, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Dextran, Hexapeptide-2, Magnesium Chloride, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Dipeptide-2, Potassium Sorbate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Citric Acid, Biotin, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Dipeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Pentapeptide-18, Tripeptide-3, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Hexapeptide-9, Oligopeptide-3, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Ubiquinone, Copper Tripeptide-1, Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1, Caffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4, Galloyl Pentapeptide-33, Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Octapeptide-7, Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Decapeptide-9, Sh-Oligopeptide-9, Sh-Pentapeptide-19, Asparagine, Glutamine, Tryptophan, Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Carnosine, Nonapeptide-1
Acetamidoethoxyethanol
Propylene Glycol
Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2
Cyclopentasiloxane
Menthyl Lactate
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52
Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18
Diamond Powder
Methylglucoside Phosphate
Copper Lysinate/Prolinate
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Hydroxyacetophenone
Glyceryl Caprylate
Phenylpropanol
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Water, Glycerin, Acetamidoethoxyethanol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysorbate 20, 1,2-Hexanediol, Menthyl Lactate, Resveratrol, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52, Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18, Diamond Powder, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Caprylate, Phenylpropanol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Dimethicone Crosspolymer is a silicone created by modifying dimethicone with hydrocarbon side chains. Due to its large size, it does not penetrate skin. It is considered non-occlusive.
Dimethicone Crosspolymer is used to stabilize and thicken products. It also helps give products a silky feel.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
You might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.
As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.
A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.
The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.
Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Resveratrol is a well-studied polyphenol antioxidant that has gained attention in skincare for its protective and calming effects on the skin. It’s often considered a gentler option for people who can’t tolerate retinoids.
This antioxidant is best known for its anti-aging benefits. Research suggests resveratrol helps combat visible signs of aging by:
Beyond anti-aging, resveratrol is also valued for its skin-brightening and soothing properties.
Some forms of resveratrol appear to be more effective than others. Resveratrol isobutyrate and resveratrol butyrate are often cited as more stable derivatives.
Research also suggests these two forms have stronger effects on Type I collagen stimulation and inflammation reduction compared to basic resveratrol.
Resveratrol is naturally unstable and can degrade when exposed to light and oxygen. Well-designed products often use stabilized derivatives, airless or opaque packaging, and supporting antioxidants to help maintain effectiveness on skin.
A note on resveratrol as a retinoid alternative: While resveratrol offers antioxidant protection, inflammation control, and some collagen-supporting benefits, it does not replace retinoids in terms of cell turnover or acne treatment.
However, it can be a useful option for people with retinoid sensitivity or intolerance, or for those looking to support skin health without irritation.
Fun fact: Resveratrol is naturally found in grapes, peanuts, and berries, which is why it’s frequently associated with wine and grape-derived skincare ingredients.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.