Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Numbuzin No.5 Vitamin Concentrated Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum

Numbuzin No.5 Vitamin Concentrated Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. This brightening serum is form

Numbuzin No.5 Vitamin Concentrated Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Extract

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Panthenol

Tranexamic Acid

Water

1,2-Hexanediol

Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Sorbitol

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Alpha-Arbutin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Glycerin

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Bisabolol

Tromethamine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Allantoin

Glutathione

Ceramide NP

Beta-Glucan

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Tocopherol

Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Tocopheryl Acetate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Ubiquinone

Thioctic Acid

Potassium Hydroxide

Behenyl Alcohol

Carbomer

Xanthan Gum

Disodium EDTA

Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Extract, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Tranexamic Acid, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Alpha-Arbutin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Bisabolol, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Allantoin, Glutathione, Ceramide NP, Beta-Glucan, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopherol, Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Ubiquinone, Thioctic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Behenyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA

Sodium Hydroxide

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Alcohol

Sodium Metabisulfite

Dehydroacetic Acid

Phytic Acid

Oligopeptide-1

Water, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dehydroacetic Acid, Phytic Acid, Oligopeptide-1

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) is one of the most stable vitamin C derivatives out there.

It's made by attaching a glucose molecule to ascorbic acid; this glucose "cap" shields the vitamin C from air, light, heat, and metal ions that normally cause pure ascorbic acid to oxidize.

Once on your skin, the enzyme alpha-glucosidase snips off the glucose and gradually releases active ascorbic acid right where it's needed. Basically, it behaves like a slow-release pro-vitamin C with less of a stinging that high-strength ascorbic acid can cause.

The research supports the classic vitamin C benefits as well. In lab and human studies, AA-2G slowed down the skin's production of melanin (the pigment behind dark spots) and helped shield skin cells against sun damage better than ascorbyl phosphate.

These studies also showed AA-2G released vitamin C over a longer period.

A frequently cited manufacturer trial found that a 2% AA-2G face cream significantly improved wrinkle depth and skin roughness after 45 days.

And in 2009, a clinical trial showed it meaningfully lightened dark patches on the gums compared to a placebo.

There's also collagen-synthesis support (since vitamin C is a required cofactor for that) and an antioxidant effect too.

Typical usage is usually between 0.5-5% and most studies/products land around 2%.

AA-2G performs best when formulated at a mildly acidic pH (~5-7) which is much gentler than the pH that pure vitamin C demands (~2.5-3.5).

Just one thing worth knowing: the in-skin conversation rate is only about 55-60% by weight. So a 5% AA-2G product delivers roughly 2.75-3% of actual active vitamin C. On top of that, skin absorption is relatively low because the ingredient is water-soluble.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
  4. 04It’s often used to:
  5. 05Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
  6. 06Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
  7. 07So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
  8. 08You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side