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Palmer's Cocoa Butter Formula Skin Therapy Face Oil Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum

Palmer's Cocoa Butter Formula Skin Therapy Face Oil Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum This hydrating oil is formulated around Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil and Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging serum is fo

Palmer's Cocoa Butter Formula Skin Therapy Face Oil Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum

This hydrating oil is formulated around Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil and Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinyl Acetate and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Isopropyl Myristate

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

Camelina Sativa Seed Oil

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil

PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Caprylyl Methicone

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Tocopheryl Acetate

Retinol

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Centella Asiatica Extract

Rosa Canina Seed Extract

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Dimethicone

Hydrogenated Methyl Abietate

Parfum

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

BHT

Benzyl Benzoate

Citronellol

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Geraniol

Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde

Hexyl Cinnamal

Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Isopropyl Myristate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Camelina Sativa Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Caprylyl Methicone, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Rosa Canina Seed Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Methyl Abietate, Parfum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, BHT, Benzyl Benzoate, Citronellol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Geraniol, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Hexyl Cinnamal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Retinyl Acetate

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Phospholipids

Squalane

Glycine Soja Oil

Carbomer

Polysorbate 60

Glycolipids

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Phytate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Glycine Soja Sterols

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Lactate

Tocopherol

Polysorbate 20

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Retinyl Acetate, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Phospholipids, Squalane, Glycine Soja Oil, Carbomer, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycolipids, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
  4. 04Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
  5. 05It plays several roles in a formula:
  6. 06Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
  7. 07Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
  8. 08However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
  9. 09Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
  10. 10Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
  11. 11Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
  12. 12This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
  13. 13A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
  14. 14Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  15. 15The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  16. 16Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  17. 17Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  18. 18It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
  19. 19On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
  20. 20Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Oat Balm Cleanser

The Inkey List Oat Balm Cleanser The Inkey List Oat Balm Cleanser ingredients explained: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kerne…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

The Inkey List Advanced Retinal Serum

The Inkey List Advanced Retinal Serum The Inkey List Advanced Retinal Serum ingredients explained: Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-6…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
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Comparison edit

Read side by side