Skin science article
Pacifica Kale Smoothie Refining Lotion Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream
Pacifica Kale Smoothie Refining Lotion Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Beta-Glucan and Gluconolactone to refine skin texture and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinam
Pacifica Kale Smoothie Refining Lotion Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream
This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Beta-Glucan and Gluconolactone to refine skin texture and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and balance excess oil.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Beta-Glucan
Algin
Xanthan Gum
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Coconut Alkanes
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Diheptyl Succinate
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Biosaccharide Gum-1
1,2-Hexanediol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Gluconolactone
Sodium Benzoate
Arginine
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Cocos Nucifera Water
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Juice
Tocopherol
Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex
Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract
Niacinamide
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Brassica Oleracea Italica Seed Oil
Water, Glycerin, Beta-Glucan, Algin, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Coconut Alkanes, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Biosaccharide Gum-1, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Gluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate, Arginine, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Cocos Nucifera Water, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Juice, Tocopherol, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex, Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract, Niacinamide, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Seed Oil
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Propanediol
Betaine
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Magnesium Sulfate
Glycosphingolipids
Glycolipids
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Oleic Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
Polyglycerin-3
Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Magnesium Sulfate, Glycosphingolipids, Glycolipids, Sodium Benzoate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Oleic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Polyglycerin-3
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!