Skin science article
Origins GinZing Into the Glow Brightening Serum Versus Origins Plantscription Multi-Powered Youth Serum
Origins GinZing Into the Glow Brightening Serum Versus Origins Plantscription Multi-Powered Youth Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Lactic Acid and Panax Ginseng Root Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture. This anti-agin
Origins GinZing Into the Glow Brightening Serum Versus Origins Plantscription Multi-Powered Youth Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Lactic Acid and Panax Ginseng Root Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
C9-12 Alkane
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Tartaric Acid
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Lactic Acid
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil
Citral
Linalool
Limonene
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Carica Papaya Fruit Extract
Pyruvic Acid
Salicylic Acid
Caffeine
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Trehalose
Squalane
Glycerin
Algae Extract
Menthol
Lecithin
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Xanthan Gum
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Polysorbate 20
Polysorbate 60
PPG-5-Ceteth-20
Plankton Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
BHT
Phenoxyethanol
CI 15510
Water, Butylene Glycol, C9-12 Alkane, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Tartaric Acid, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Lactic Acid, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil, Citral, Linalool, Limonene, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Pyruvic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Caffeine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Trehalose, Squalane, Glycerin, Algae Extract, Menthol, Lecithin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Plankton Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, CI 15510
Niacinamide
Heptyl Undecylenate
Octyldodecanol
Glycereth-26
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil
Myristica Fragrans Kernel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Geraniol
Citronellol
Anogeissus Leiocarpus Bark Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Glucosamine Hcl
Bambusa Vulgaris Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Molasses Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Pisum Sativum Extract
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Hexylene Glycol
PEG-8
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Carbomer
Sodium Metabisulfite
Sodium Sulfite
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Phytate
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Heptyl Undecylenate, Octyldodecanol, Glycereth-26, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Algae Extract, Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Myristica Fragrans Kernel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Linalool, Geraniol, Citronellol, Limonene, Anogeissus Leiocarpus Bark Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Glucosamine Hcl, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Caffeine, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Molasses Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-8, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Sulfite, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Phytate, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Algae Extract is a confusing name. This is because algae is an informal term for a group of 30,000 aquatic organisms that can photosynthesize.
The term 'algae extract' can refer to any one, or a blend of, the 30,000 types.
Algae is rich in antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
Algae can also help with soothing and hydrating skin.
Many different types of algae have different benefits.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Citrus Limon Peel Oil is created from the peels of the lemon. It is used to add a lemon-scent to products. Lemon peel oil also has antibacterial, antifungal, and antioxidant properties. However, it may also cause phototoxicity and sensitize skin.
Lemon peel oil contains limonene, a skin sensitizing ingredient. Another component is furanocoumarin, which induces phototoxicity in skin.
Furanocoumarins bind and destabilize your DNA to increase the rate of sunburn.
Most reputable companies will remove furanocoumarins from their formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.