Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Paula's Choice CBD Skin Transformative Treatment Milk Versus Avène Tolerance Extreme Cleansing Lotion

Paula's Choice CBD Skin Transformative Treatment Milk Versus Avène Tolerance Extreme Cleansing Lotion This calming serum is formulated around Cannabidiol - Synthetically Produced and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. Th

Paula's Choice CBD Skin Transformative Treatment Milk Versus Avène Tolerance Extreme Cleansing Lotion

This calming serum is formulated around Cannabidiol - Synthetically Produced and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This mild cream cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

No key ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Squalane

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Cannabidiol - Synthetically Produced

Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Centella Asiatica Extract

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Lupinus Albus Seed Oil

Phospholipids

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lecithin

Tocopherol

Sodium PCA

Panthenol

Sodium Phytate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Xanthan Gum

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Pullulan

Sclerotium Gum

Hexylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cannabidiol - Synthetically Produced, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Lupinus Albus Seed Oil, Phospholipids, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Sodium PCA, Panthenol, Sodium Phytate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Pullulan, Sclerotium Gum, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Behenyl Alcohol

Sodium Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Carbomer

Water, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Behenyl Alcohol, Sodium Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
  3. 03Zinc Oxide
  4. 04Titanium Dioxide
  5. 05Glycerin
  6. 06Isononyl Isononanoate
  7. 07Butylene Glycol
  8. 08Cetearyl Alcohol
  9. 09Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
  10. 10Dimethicone
  11. 11Glyceryl Stearate
  12. 12Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
  13. 13Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract
  14. 14Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
  15. 15Tetrapeptide-30
  16. 16Linoleic Acid
  17. 17Resveratrol
  18. 18Ascorbyl Glucoside
  19. 19Niacinamide
  20. 20Tocopheryl Acetate
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice Radiance Renewal Mask

Paula's Choice Radiance Renewal Mask Paula's Choice Radiance Renewal Mask ingredients explained: Water (Aqua), Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fru…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side