Skin science article
Paula's Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster Versus Dermalogica Circular Hydration Serum
Paula's Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster Versus Dermalogica Circular Hydration Serum This hydrating treatment is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This hydrating serum is formulated around P
Paula's Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster Versus Dermalogica Circular Hydration Serum
This hydrating treatment is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Panthenol and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Phytosphingosine
Yeast Extract
Adenosine
Cholesterol
Panthenol
Silanetriol
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Carbomer
Xanthan Gum
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Polysorbate 20
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Yeast Extract, Adenosine, Cholesterol, Panthenol, Silanetriol, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
PEG-8
Methylpropanediol
Propanediol
PPG-24-Glycereth-24
1,2-Hexanediol
Xylitylglucoside
Hydroxyethyl Urea
Hydroxyacetophenone
Lactic Acid
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Santalum Album Oil
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Gigartina Stellata Extract
Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
Cupressus Sempervirens Oil
Cistus Ladaniferus Leaf/Stem Extract
Juniperus Virginiana Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Tagetes Minuta Flower Oil
Rosa Damascena Flower
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium PCA
Anhydroxylitol
Xylitol
Polyglutamic Acid
Lactobacillus Ferment
Lysine Hcl
Betaine
Sclerotium Gum
Sodium Lactate
PCA
Glucose
Serine
Alanine
Glycine
Pantolactone
Glutamic Acid
Threonine
Arginine
Proline
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Amylopectin
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Limonene
Linalool
Water, PEG-8, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Propanediol, PPG-24-Glycereth-24, 1,2-Hexanediol, Xylitylglucoside, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Panthenol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Lactic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Santalum Album Oil, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Gigartina Stellata Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Cupressus Sempervirens Oil, Cistus Ladaniferus Leaf/Stem Extract, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Tagetes Minuta Flower Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium PCA, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Polyglutamic Acid, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lysine Hcl, Betaine, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Lactate, PCA, Glucose, Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Silanetriol, Pantolactone, Glutamic Acid, Threonine, Arginine, Proline, Xanthan Gum, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Amylopectin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene, Linalool
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
We don't have a description for Silanetriol yet.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.