Skin science article
Paula's Choice Resist Intensive Repair Cream Versus Clinique Moisture Surge 72-Hour Auto-Replenishing Hydrator
Paula's Choice Resist Intensive Repair Cream Versus Clinique Moisture Surge 72-Hour Auto-Replenishing Hydrator This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This barr
Paula's Choice Resist Intensive Repair Cream Versus Clinique Moisture Surge 72-Hour Auto-Replenishing Hydrator
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Petrolatum
Cetearyl Alcohol
Dimethicone
Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate
Glyceryl Stearate
Tridecyl Trimellitate
PEG-100 Stearate
Phenyl Trimethicone
Retinol
Adenosine
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Ceramide Ng
Sodium Hyaluronate
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Niacinamide
Tocopherol
Lecithin
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Retinyl Palmitate
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Glycine Soja Sterols
Tribehenin
PEG-10 Phytosterol
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Pullulan
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Hydroxide
Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Cetearyl Glucoside
Tridecyl Stearate
Behenyl Alcohol
Sclerotium Gum
Carbomer
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Polysorbate 20
Disodium EDTA
Sorbic Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Benzoic Acid
Water, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Petrolatum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Glyceryl Stearate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, PEG-100 Stearate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Retinol, Adenosine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ceramide Ng, Sodium Hyaluronate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Niacinamide, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Tribehenin, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Pullulan, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tridecyl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Sclerotium Gum, Carbomer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid
Trisiloxane
Trehalose
Sucrose
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydroxyethyl Urea
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Silybum Marianum Extract
Betula Alba Bark Extract
Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water
Thermus Thermophillus Ferment
Caffeine
Sorbitol
Caprylyl Glycol
Oleth-10
Sodium Polyaspartate
Saccharide Isomerate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Tromethamine
PEG-8
Hexylene Glycol
BHT
CI 14700
CI 19140
Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Trisiloxane, Trehalose, Sucrose, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Silybum Marianum Extract, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Caffeine, Sorbitol, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Oleth-10, Sodium Polyaspartate, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Tromethamine, PEG-8, Hexylene Glycol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, CI 14700, CI 19140
Reviews
Be the first to review
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C. It is used in skincare because it tends to be more formulation friendly than pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid).
According to research, MAP has three major benefits:
While MAP is gentler on the skin than ascorbic acid, it is thought to be less easily absorbed into the skin.
In a well-known absorption study, pure vitamin C increased skin vitamin C levels when formulated correctly, but derivatives like MAP did not in that experiment. This suggests MAP may not always convert into active vitamin C in the skin.
Due to MAP's stability up to a pH level of 7, it is more stable to air and sunlight exposure than ascorbic acid. The best pH range for MAP is between 5 and 6.
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 is a synthetic lipopeptide. This just means it's a short chain of six amino acids with a palmitic acid molecule attached to one end.
The palmitoyl group increases the lipophilicity, helping it penetrate the lipid-rich outer layer of skin more effectively.
Once inside, it helps with keeping skin springy and firm. It works by mimicking the skin repair signals your skin naturally sends out when it's damaged and telling it to kick into rebuild mode.
Studies have shown it can help strengthen the skin barrier as well so it's useful beyond just anti-aging.
In vitro studies suggest it can switch on genes that help skin cells grow, move around, and rebuild skin structure. Just keep in mind most of the strong evidence is from lab studies rather than large-scale clinical trials.
Lab studies suggest it can switch on genes that help skin cells grow, move around, and rebuild skin structure.
This ingredient is usually used at very low concentrations (0.002% in leave-on products).
Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!