Skin science article
Paula's Choice Resist Intensive Repair Cream Versus Dermalogica UltraCalming Barrier Repair
Paula's Choice Resist Intensive Repair Cream Versus Dermalogica UltraCalming Barrier Repair This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturi
Paula's Choice Resist Intensive Repair Cream Versus Dermalogica UltraCalming Barrier Repair
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Bisabolol and Avena Sativa Kernel Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Petrolatum
Cetearyl Alcohol
Dimethicone
Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate
Glyceryl Stearate
Tridecyl Trimellitate
PEG-100 Stearate
Phenyl Trimethicone
Retinol
Adenosine
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Ceramide Ng
Sodium Hyaluronate
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Niacinamide
Tocopherol
Lecithin
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Retinyl Palmitate
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Glycine Soja Sterols
Tribehenin
PEG-10 Phytosterol
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Pullulan
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Hydroxide
Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Cetearyl Glucoside
Tridecyl Stearate
Behenyl Alcohol
Sclerotium Gum
Carbomer
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Polysorbate 20
Disodium EDTA
Sorbic Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Benzoic Acid
Water, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Petrolatum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Glyceryl Stearate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, PEG-100 Stearate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Retinol, Adenosine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ceramide Ng, Sodium Hyaluronate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Niacinamide, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Tribehenin, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Pullulan, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tridecyl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Sclerotium Gum, Carbomer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid
Cyclopentasiloxane
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Tocopheryl Acetate
Bisabolol
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Oil
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
Pentylene Glycol
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Butylene Glycol, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Glycerin, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Water
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!