Skin science article
PCA Skin Collagen Hydrator Versus Summer Fridays Rich Cushion Cream Ultra Plumping Moisturizer
PCA Skin Collagen Hydrator Versus Summer Fridays Rich Cushion Cream Ultra Plumping Moisturizer This calming moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to calm redness and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moistur
PCA Skin Collagen Hydrator Versus Summer Fridays Rich Cushion Cream Ultra Plumping Moisturizer
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to calm redness and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil and Hyaluronic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Glycerin
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Isopropyl Palmitate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Cyclopentasiloxane
Dimethicone
Cetyl Alcohol
Polysorbate 60
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Allantoin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Glycol Distearate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Phenoxyethanol
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium PCA
Tocopherol
Xanthan Gum
Carbomer
Sodium Hydroxide
Tetrasodium EDTA
Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Allantoin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycol Distearate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Isopropyl Myristate
Betaine
Hyaluronic Acid
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Squalane
Saccharide Isomerate
Bisabolol
Centella Asiatica Extract
Salicornia Herbacea Extract
Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract
Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract
Resveratrol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Panthenol
Sodium Lactate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Laurate
Stearic Acid
Palmitic Acid
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Citrate
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Glyceryl Caprylate
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate, Isopropyl Myristate, Cetyl Alcohol, Betaine, Hyaluronic Acid, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Squalane, Saccharide Isomerate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Resveratrol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Laurate, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Benzoate
Reviews
Be the first to review
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract comes from the Chamomile flower.
Chamomile is rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties. Several compounds found in chamomile help with soothing, such as bisbolol.
Antioxidant components in chamomile make it an effective ingredient to help slow the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, or molecules that may damage your skin.
Essential oils from chamomile have been found to improve wound healing due to its antimicrobial properties.
Ancient Greeks and Egyptians used Chamomile to treat skin redness and dryness. Chamomile has also been used to help treat stomach issues.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Sodium PCA (the salt of PCA) is one of the most well-established humectants in skincare.
Why is it so special? Your skin already makes it naturally; it's a natural component of your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the mix of water-binding compounds inside your skin cells that keeps things soft and hydrated.
As a cosmetic ingredient, it grabs water and holds it in the upper layers of skin to smooth roughness and ease dehydration.
There's some clinical support for the NMF approach with a study showing that a cream built to mimic the skin's NMF significantly boosted hydration.
Safety-wise, this ingredient non-irritating, non-comedogenic, and non-phototoxic in testing, with minimal skin absorption.
It also works really well with other hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and typical usage is somewhere between 0.2-4%.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.
THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).
Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.
Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.
Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.
A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).
While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.
THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.