Skin science article
Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Wrinkle Resist Serum Versus Caudalie Resveratrol Lift Instant Firming Serum
Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Wrinkle Resist Serum Versus Caudalie Resveratrol Lift Instant Firming Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tripeptide-10 Citrulline and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging serum is formu
Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Wrinkle Resist Serum Versus Caudalie Resveratrol Lift Instant Firming Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tripeptide-10 Citrulline and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract and Hyaluronic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Rosa Centifolia Flower Water
Isopropyl Myristate
Squalane
Mannitol
Butylene Glycol
Natto Gum
Tripeptide-10 Citrulline
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Hexapeptide-11
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Sodium Polyglutamate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Retinyl Palmitate
Ascorbic Acid
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Lecithin
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Acrylates Copolymer
Magnesium Chloride
Polysorbate 20
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
PEG-8 Dimethicone
Disodium Phosphate
Carbomer
Dextran
Sodium Lactate
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Xanthan Gum
Triethanolamine
Sodium Phosphate
Octyldodecanol
Silica
Sodium Propoxyhydroxypropyl Thiosulfate Silica
Sodium Hydroxide
Caprylyl Glycol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Isopropyl Myristate, Squalane, Mannitol, Butylene Glycol, Natto Gum, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hexapeptide-11, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Polyglutamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lecithin, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Acrylates Copolymer, Magnesium Chloride, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, PEG-8 Dimethicone, Disodium Phosphate, Carbomer, Dextran, Sodium Lactate, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Xanthan Gum, Triethanolamine, Sodium Phosphate, Octyldodecanol, Silica, Sodium Propoxyhydroxypropyl Thiosulfate Silica, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
Hexyldecanol
Hexyldecyl Laurate
C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate
Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract
C20-22 Alcohols
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Parfum
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Dehydroacetate
Hyaluronic Acid
Adenosine
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Phytate
Khaya Senegalensis Bark Extract
Maltodextrin
Linalool
Limonene
Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Coumarin
Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-47
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate, Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract, C20-22 Alcohols, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Hyaluronic Acid, Adenosine, Sodium Hydroxide, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Phytate, Khaya Senegalensis Bark Extract, Maltodextrin, Linalool, Limonene, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Coumarin, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-47
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!