Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Wrinkle Resist Serum Versus rhode Peptide Lip Treatment

Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Wrinkle Resist Serum Versus rhode Peptide Lip Treatment This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tripeptide-10 Citrulline and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated arou

Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Wrinkle Resist Serum Versus rhode Peptide Lip Treatment

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tripeptide-10 Citrulline and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Rosa Centifolia Flower Water

Isopropyl Myristate

Squalane

Mannitol

Butylene Glycol

Natto Gum

Tripeptide-10 Citrulline

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Hexapeptide-11

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Sodium Polyglutamate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Retinyl Palmitate

Ascorbic Acid

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Lecithin

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Acrylates Copolymer

Magnesium Chloride

Polysorbate 20

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

PEG-8 Dimethicone

Disodium Phosphate

Carbomer

Dextran

Sodium Lactate

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Xanthan Gum

Triethanolamine

Sodium Phosphate

Octyldodecanol

Silica

Sodium Propoxyhydroxypropyl Thiosulfate Silica

Sodium Hydroxide

Caprylyl Glycol

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Isopropyl Myristate, Squalane, Mannitol, Butylene Glycol, Natto Gum, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hexapeptide-11, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Polyglutamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lecithin, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Acrylates Copolymer, Magnesium Chloride, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, PEG-8 Dimethicone, Disodium Phosphate, Carbomer, Dextran, Sodium Lactate, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Xanthan Gum, Triethanolamine, Sodium Phosphate, Octyldodecanol, Silica, Sodium Propoxyhydroxypropyl Thiosulfate Silica, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Diisostearyl Malate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Polybutene

Microcrystalline Wax

Synthetic Beeswax

Synthetic Wax

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate

Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate

Triethyl Citrate

Tocopherol

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Lactic Acid

Tribehenin

Stevioside

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Disteardimonium Hectorite

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polybutene, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Wax, Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate, Triethyl Citrate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Lactic Acid, Tribehenin, Stevioside, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Disteardimonium Hectorite, O-Cymen-5-Ol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).

It is:

You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.

This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.

Regarding fungal acne: In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Product index

Related product references

Product

rhode Peptide Lip Treatment

rhode Peptide Lip Treatment rhode Peptide Lip Treatment ingredients explained: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Polybutene, Microcrystall…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
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Comparison edit

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