Skin science article
The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum Versus Cocokind Vitamin C Serum With Sea Grape Caviar
The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum Versus Cocokind Vitamin C Serum With Sea Grape Caviar This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This brightening serum is formulated
The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum Versus Cocokind Vitamin C Serum With Sea Grape Caviar
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Sodium Hydroxide
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl Alcohol
Butylene Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Metabisulfite
Dehydroacetic Acid
Phytic Acid
Oligopeptide-1
Water, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dehydroacetic Acid, Phytic Acid, Oligopeptide-1
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Glycerin
Polyglycerin-6
Pentylene Glycol
Azelaic Acid
Propanediol
Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether
Sodium Citrate
Betaine
Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Phytate
Sodium Benzoate
Citric Acid
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Water, Glycerin, Polyglycerin-6, Pentylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Azelaic Acid, Propanediol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Citrate, Betaine, Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) is one of the most stable vitamin C derivatives out there.
It's made by attaching a glucose molecule to ascorbic acid; this glucose "cap" shields the vitamin C from air, light, heat, and metal ions that normally cause pure ascorbic acid to oxidize.
Once on your skin, the enzyme alpha-glucosidase snips off the glucose and gradually releases active ascorbic acid right where it's needed. Basically, it behaves like a slow-release pro-vitamin C with less of a stinging that high-strength ascorbic acid can cause.
The research supports the classic vitamin C benefits as well. In lab and human studies, AA-2G slowed down the skin's production of melanin (the pigment behind dark spots) and helped shield skin cells against sun damage better than ascorbyl phosphate.
These studies also showed AA-2G released vitamin C over a longer period.
A frequently cited manufacturer trial found that a 2% AA-2G face cream significantly improved wrinkle depth and skin roughness after 45 days.
And in 2009, a clinical trial showed it meaningfully lightened dark patches on the gums compared to a placebo.
There's also collagen-synthesis support (since vitamin C is a required cofactor for that) and an antioxidant effect too.
Typical usage is usually between 0.5-5% and most studies/products land around 2%.
AA-2G performs best when formulated at a mildly acidic pH (~5-7) which is much gentler than the pH that pure vitamin C demands (~2.5-3.5).
Just one thing worth knowing: the in-skin conversation rate is only about 55-60% by weight. So a 5% AA-2G product delivers roughly 2.75-3% of actual active vitamin C. On top of that, skin absorption is relatively low because the ingredient is water-soluble.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.