Skin science article
The INKEY List Bakuchiol Moisturizer Versus The Ordinary "B" Oil
The INKEY List Bakuchiol Moisturizer Versus The Ordinary "B" Oil This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Bakuchiol and Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This hydrating oil is formulated around Squalane and Bisabolol to h
The INKEY List Bakuchiol Moisturizer Versus The Ordinary "B" Oil
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Bakuchiol and Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This hydrating oil is formulated around Squalane and Bisabolol to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Squalane
Glycerin
Propanediol
Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Bakuchiol
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Caproyl Prolinate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Carbomer
Sodium Hydroxide
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Polysorbate 60
Phytic Acid
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Tocopherol
Water, Squalane, Glycerin, Propanediol, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Bakuchiol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Caproyl Prolinate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polysorbate 60, Phytic Acid, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil
Bisabolol
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Isochrysis Galbana Extract
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Oenocarpus Bataua Fruit Oil
Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Oil
Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Bisabolol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Isochrysis Galbana Extract, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Oenocarpus Bataua Fruit Oil, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Oil, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil (aka sacha inchi oil) is a plant oil that is 80-90% polyunsaturated fatty acids. These fatty acids are split pretty evenly between alpha-linoleic acid and linoleic acid.
On skin, it is an emollient and barrier helper since linoleic acid feeds into your skin's own lipid barrier.
A 14 day human study found its moisturizing performance matched olive oil and tested as mild/low irritation on skin tissue.
It also showed gentle anti-inflammatory + antioxidant activity, plus the ability to stop Staphylococcus aureus (a bacteria tied to breakouts and eczema flares) from sticking to skin.
The concentration for this oil is flexible and can range from a few percent in serums up to 100% as a facial oil.
Since this ingredient is a triglyceride oil loaded with fatty acids that Malassezia can feed on, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Allergy-wise, the risk is low. Despite having the nicknames "Inca peanut" or "mountain peanut", this ingredient is not actually a peanut or tree nut. However, allergy to the seeds does exist so patch test if your skin is reactive.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.