Skin science article
The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer Versus Sunday Riley Ice Ceramide Moisturizing Cream
The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer Versus Sunday Riley Ice Ceramide Moisturizing Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrat
The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer Versus Sunday Riley Ice Ceramide Moisturizing Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Chondrus Crispus Extract and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Propanediol
Polysilicone-11
C10-18 Triglycerides
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Cetyl Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
Ceramide NP
Polyacrylate-13
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Laureth-12
Sorbitan Isostearate
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Polysilicone-11, C10-18 Triglycerides, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Ceramide NP, Polyacrylate-13, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Laureth-12, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Squalane
C13-15 Alkane
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Lanolin Alcohol
Tri (Polyglyceryl-3/Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide AP
Sodium Hyaluronate
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Fruit Extract
Fructooligosaccharides
Beta Vulgaris Root Extract
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters
Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract
Pimpinella Anisum Fruit Extract
Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Punica Granatum Sterols
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract
Cinnamomum Cassia Leaf Oil
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Triethyl Citrate
Tapioca Starch
Maltol
Polyquaternium-80
Sodium Phytate
Magnesium Stearate
Magnesium Aspartate
Pentylene Glycol
Tocopherol
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract
Zinc Gluconate
Copper Gluconate
Xanthan Gum
Carbomer
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
Water, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Squalane, C13-15 Alkane, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Lanolin Alcohol, Tri (Polyglyceryl-3/Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Fruit Extract, Fructooligosaccharides, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract, Pimpinella Anisum Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Sterols, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Leaf Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Triethyl Citrate, Tapioca Starch, Maltol, Polyquaternium-80, Sodium Phytate, Magnesium Stearate, Magnesium Aspartate, Pentylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.
When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.
If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!