The INKEY List Phytic Acid Serum Versus Dieux Skin Deliverance

The INKEY List Phytic Acid Serum Versus Dieux Skin Deliverance

This brightening serum is formulated around Phytic Acid and Lactic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.

This calming serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Cannabidiol - Synthetically Produced to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Butylene Glycol

Phytic Acid

Glycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Hydroxide

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Lecithin

Sodium Phytate

Tetraselmis Suecica Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Lactic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phytic Acid, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Sodium Phytate, Tetraselmis Suecica Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Lactic Acid, Potassium Sorbate

Niacinamide

Dipropylene Glycol

Dimethicone

Cyclodextrin

Methylpropanediol

Sodium Palmitoyl Proline

Pentylene Glycol

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Polyacrylate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Polysilicone-11

Cannabigerol

Cannabidiol - Synthetically Produced

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52

Passiflora Incarnata Extract

Decyl Glucoside

Sea Water Extract

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Cyclodextrin, Methylpropanediol, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polysilicone-11, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Cannabigerol, Cannabidiol - Synthetically Produced, Sodium Phytate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52, Passiflora Incarnata Extract, Decyl Glucoside, Sea Water Extract, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.

Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:

Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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