Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

ZO Skin Health Growth Factor Serum Versus PCA Skin Hyaluronic Acid Boosting Serum

ZO Skin Health Growth Factor Serum Versus PCA Skin Hyaluronic Acid Boosting Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles. This hydrating serum is formulated around Niacinamide a

ZO Skin Health Growth Factor Serum Versus PCA Skin Hyaluronic Acid Boosting Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles.

This hydrating serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cyclopentasiloxane

Dipropylene Glycol

Propylene Glycol

Dimethicone

Glycerin

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer

PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Sodium Phosphate

Panthenyl Triacetate

Phospholipids

Magnesium Sulfate

Hydrolyzed Sericin

Ethyl Linoleate

Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture

Angelica Polymorpha Sinensis Root Extract

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate

Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate

Acetyl Tyrosine

Dimethiconol

Oleyl Alcohol

Proline

Parfum

Tocopherol

Beta-Glucan

Adenosine Triphosphate

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Sodium Chloride

Xanthan Gum

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dipropylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Phosphate, Panthenyl Triacetate, Phospholipids, Magnesium Sulfate, Hydrolyzed Sericin, Ethyl Linoleate, Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture, Angelica Polymorpha Sinensis Root Extract, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate, Acetyl Tyrosine, Dimethiconol, Oleyl Alcohol, Proline, Parfum, Tocopherol, Beta-Glucan, Adenosine Triphosphate, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Sodium Chloride, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol

Propanediol

Niacinamide

Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Coconut Alkanes

Isododecane

Jojoba Esters

Polysilicone-11

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Benzoate

Carbomer

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Cetyl Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Hydroxide

Hexylene Glycol

Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Aroma

Polyglucuronic Acid

Ceramide NP

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Carrageenan

Ceramide AP

Phytosphingosine

Caprylyl Glycol

Cholesterol

Lecithin

Maris Sal

Ceramide EOP

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Coconut Alkanes, Phenoxyethanol, Isododecane, Jojoba Esters, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polysilicone-11, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Benzoate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Hexylene Glycol, Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Aroma, Polyglucuronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Carrageenan, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Caprylyl Glycol, Cholesterol, Lecithin, Maris Sal, Ceramide EOP

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Dimethicone Crosspolymer is a silicone created by modifying dimethicone with hydrocarbon side chains. Due to its large size, it does not penetrate skin. It is considered non-occlusive.

Dimethicone Crosspolymer is used to stabilize and thicken products. It also helps give products a silky feel.

We don't have a description for Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate yet.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  4. 04Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  5. 05Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  6. 06Hydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
  7. 07This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
  8. 08This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
  9. 09Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
  10. 10So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
  11. 11You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

PCA Skin Resurfacing Serum

PCA Skin Resurfacing Serum PCA Skin Resurfacing Serum ingredients explained: Water, Glycolic Acid, Dimethicone, Lactobionic Acid, Squalane, Coco-Caprylate, Propanediol, Potassium Lactate, G…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

PCA Skin Smoothing Toner

PCA Skin Smoothing Toner PCA Skin Smoothing Toner ingredients explained: Water/Aqua/Eau, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrastis Canadensis (Goldenseal) E…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side