Estée Lauder Nutritious Melting Soft Creme/Mask Moisturizer Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream

Estée Lauder Nutritious Melting Soft Creme/Mask Moisturizer Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Lactobacillus Ferment to calm redness.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and balance excess oil.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Heptyl Undecylenate

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Cetyl Alcohol

Niacinamide

Laminaria Saccharina Extract

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment

Hydrolyzed Rice Extract

Punica Granatum Extract

Zinc PCA

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Caffeine

Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Jojoba Esters

Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Sucrose

Saccharide Isomerate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Phytate

Sodium Citrate

Citric Acid

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Propylene Glycol Dicaprate

Xanthan Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tocopherol

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Carbomer

Sodium Hydroxide

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Heptyl Undecylenate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Zinc PCA, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caffeine, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Jojoba Esters, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Sucrose, Saccharide Isomerate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Propanediol

Betaine

Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Magnesium Sulfate

Glycosphingolipids

Glycolipids

Sodium Benzoate

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Oleic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Polyglycerin-3

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Magnesium Sulfate, Glycosphingolipids, Glycolipids, Sodium Benzoate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Oleic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Polyglycerin-3

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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