Guerlain Abeille Royale Day Cream Versus Allies of Skin Peptides & Antioxidants Advanced Firming Daily Treatment

Guerlain Abeille Royale Day Cream Versus Allies of Skin Peptides & Antioxidants Advanced Firming Daily Treatment

This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Royal Jelly and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Ferulic Acid and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

C15-19 Alkane

Isononyl Isononanoate

Mel

Jojoba Esters

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Cellulose

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Cetyl Alcohol

Dimethicone

Stearyl Alcohol

Royal Jelly

Phenoxyethanol

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Caprylyl Glycol

Steareth-21

Parfum

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Hydroxide

Tetrasodium EDTA

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

PEG-8

Tocopherol

Sodium Benzoate

Hyaluronic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Lactate

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

BHT

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Citric Acid

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, C15-19 Alkane, Isononyl Isononanoate, Mel, Jojoba Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cellulose, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Stearyl Alcohol, Royal Jelly, Phenoxyethanol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Steareth-21, Parfum, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, PEG-8, Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Hyaluronic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Lactate, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, BHT, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Citric Acid

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Polysorbate 60

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Cetearyl Olivate

Mannitol

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil

Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Lactobacillus Ferment

Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Ferulic Acid

Ceramide NP

Caffeine

Honey

Phospholipids

Sphingolipids

Bisabolol

Allantoin

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Glutathione

Ergothioneine

Dunaliella Salina Extract

Waltheria Indica Leaf Extract

Lecithin

Astaxanthin

Biotin

Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Teprenone

Sorbitan Olivate

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40

Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Dextrin

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Dextran

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Sodium Gluconate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate

T-Butyl Alcohol

Polysorbate 20

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isononyl Isononanoate, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polysorbate 60, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Mannitol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ferulic Acid, Ceramide NP, Caffeine, Honey, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Glutathione, Ergothioneine, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Waltheria Indica Leaf Extract, Lecithin, Astaxanthin, Tocopherol, Biotin, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Teprenone, Sorbitan Olivate, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Dextrin, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Dextran, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Gluconate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Citrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.

Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.

The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.

The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.

A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Isononyl Isononanoate is a synthetic skin-conditioner and texture enhancer. It is created from nonanoic acid, a fatty acid found in cocoa and lavender oil.

As an emollient, Isononyl Isononanoate helps keep your skin soft and smooth. This is because emollients create a barrier on the skin to trap moisture in.

Isononyl Isononanoate helps give products a velvet feel and improves spreadability.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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