Instytutum Anti-Wrinkle Brightening C-Erum Versus Allies of Skin Peptides & Antioxidants Advanced Firming Daily Treatment

Instytutum Anti-Wrinkle Brightening C-Erum Versus Allies of Skin Peptides & Antioxidants Advanced Firming Daily Treatment

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Ferulic Acid and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Hyaluronic Acid

Tripeptide-5

Oleanolic Acid

Squalane

Ascorbic Acid 15%

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tocopherol

Niacinamide 3%

Water

Propylheptyl Caprylate

Glycerin

Pentylene Glycol

Dicaprylyl Ether

Butylene Glycol

Sucrose Polystearate

Undecane

Cetearyl Alcohol

Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosuccinate

Phenoxyethanol

Tridecane

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Cetyl Palmitate

Alcohol

Xanthan Gum

Citric Acid

Disodium EDTA

Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate

Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol

Hyaluronic Acid, Tripeptide-5, Oleanolic Acid, Squalane, Ascorbic Acid 15%, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Niacinamide 3%, Water, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Butylene Glycol, Sucrose Polystearate, Undecane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosuccinate, Phenoxyethanol, Tridecane, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cetyl Palmitate, Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol

Isononyl Isononanoate

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Polysorbate 60

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Cetearyl Olivate

Mannitol

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil

Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil

Lactobacillus Ferment

Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Ferulic Acid

Ceramide NP

Caffeine

Honey

Phospholipids

Sphingolipids

Bisabolol

Allantoin

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Glutathione

Ergothioneine

Dunaliella Salina Extract

Waltheria Indica Leaf Extract

Lecithin

Astaxanthin

Biotin

Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Teprenone

Sorbitan Olivate

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40

Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Dextrin

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Dextran

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Sodium Gluconate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Citrate

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate

T-Butyl Alcohol

Polysorbate 20

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isononyl Isononanoate, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polysorbate 60, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Mannitol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ferulic Acid, Ceramide NP, Caffeine, Honey, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Glutathione, Ergothioneine, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Waltheria Indica Leaf Extract, Lecithin, Astaxanthin, Tocopherol, Biotin, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Teprenone, Sorbitan Olivate, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Dextrin, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Dextran, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Gluconate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Citrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.

It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.

As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.

Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.

Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:

Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.

It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.

Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.

The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.

The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.

A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.

This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.

It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.

The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.

This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.

Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.

On the fungal acne front: Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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