Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum Versus Anua Peach 70 Niacin Serum

Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum Versus Anua Peach 70 Niacin Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Ferulic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles. This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Alpha-Arbutin t

Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum Versus Anua Peach 70 Niacin Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Ferulic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles.

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Alpha-Arbutin to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Isopentyldiol

Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate

Squalane

Tetradecane

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Mannitol

Phosphatidylcholine

Ferulic Acid

Arginine

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Palmitoyl Sh-Heptapeptide-12 Sp

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Glycerin

Tocopherol

Pullulan

Lysolecithin

Sclerotium Gum

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Dimethicone

Sodium Phytate

Diglycerin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Silica

Cetyl Alcohol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Decyl Glucoside

Xanthan Gum

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Chloride

Citric Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopentyldiol, Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate, Squalane, Tetradecane, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Mannitol, Phosphatidylcholine, Ferulic Acid, Arginine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Palmitoyl Sh-Heptapeptide-12 Sp, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Pullulan, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone, Sodium Phytate, Diglycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Silica, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Decyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Chloride, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol

Prunus Persica Fruit Extract

Niacinamide

Butylene Glycol

Diethoxyethyl Succinate

1,2-Hexanediol

Lactobacillus Ferment

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sphingomonas Ferment Extract

Alpha-Arbutin

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract

Prunus Persica Flower Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Betaine Salicylate

Cellulose

Panthenol

Polyglutamic Acid

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Sucrose Palmitate

Cyanocobalamin

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Ceramide NP

Lactobionic Acid

Asiaticoside

Madecassic Acid

Asiatic Acid

Parfum

Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lactobacillus Ferment, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract, Alpha-Arbutin, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract, Prunus Persica Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Betaine Salicylate, Sodium Phytate, Cellulose, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Panthenol, Polyglutamic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Sucrose Palmitate, Cyanocobalamin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ceramide NP, Lactobionic Acid, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Parfum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
  4. 04It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
  5. 05Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
  6. 06A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
  7. 07Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
  8. 08One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
  9. 09Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
  10. 10Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  11. 11Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  12. 12Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  13. 13Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  14. 14This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  15. 15Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  16. 16Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  17. 17Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  18. 18It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
  19. 19On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
  20. 20Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

Product

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Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

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