Skin science article
Niod Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate Serum Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum
Niod Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate Serum Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look o
Niod Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate Serum Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Ferulic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract
Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract
Niacinamide
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Decapeptide-22
Oligopeptide-78
Palmitoyl Decapeptide-21
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52
Zinc Palmitoyl Nonapeptide-14
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50
Pentapeptide-18
Acetyl Hexapeptide-30
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18
S-Mu-Conotoxin Cniiic Acetate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Darutoside
Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside
Gallyl Glucoside
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Zinc PCA
Methylglucoside Phosphate
Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate
Copper Lysinate/Prolinate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Superoxide Dismutase
Escin
Ascorbic Acid
Ammonium Glycyrrhizate
Polyglucuronic Acid
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Asparagopsis Armata Extract
Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract
Olea Europaea Leaf Extract
Polypodium Vulgare Rhizome Extract
Cetraria Islandica Thallus Extract
Sphagnum Magellanicum Extract
Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Arginine
Panthenol
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Glycine Soja Protein
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein
Lecithin
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Xanthan Gum
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Silanetriol
Sodium Dextran Sulfate
Sorbitol
Pentylene Glycol
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Citric Acid
Glycolic Acid
Lactic Acid
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
PPG-26-Buteth-26
Polyvinyl Alcohol
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Propyl Gallate
Potassium Sorbate
Caprylyl Glycol
Glyceryl Caprylate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Benzoate
Benzyl Alcohol
Phenylpropanol
Dehydroacetic Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Niacinamide, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Decapeptide-22, Oligopeptide-78, Palmitoyl Decapeptide-21, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52, Zinc Palmitoyl Nonapeptide-14, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50, Pentapeptide-18, Acetyl Hexapeptide-30, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18, S-Mu-Conotoxin Cniiic Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Darutoside, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Gallyl Glucoside, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Zinc PCA, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Superoxide Dismutase, Escin, Ascorbic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Polyglucuronic Acid, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Polypodium Vulgare Rhizome Extract, Cetraria Islandica Thallus Extract, Sphagnum Magellanicum Extract, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Arginine, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Glycine Soja Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Lecithin, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Xanthan Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Silanetriol, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Sorbitol, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Citric Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Polyvinyl Alcohol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Propyl Gallate, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenylpropanol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Isopentyldiol
Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate
Squalane
Tetradecane
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Mannitol
Phosphatidylcholine
Ferulic Acid
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
Palmitoyl Sh-Heptapeptide-12 Sp
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Tocopherol
Pullulan
Lysolecithin
Sclerotium Gum
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Dimethicone
Sodium Phytate
Diglycerin
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Silica
Cetyl Alcohol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Sodium Hydroxide
Decyl Glucoside
Tocopheryl Acetate
Sodium Chloride
Water, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopentyldiol, Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate, Squalane, Tetradecane, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Mannitol, Phosphatidylcholine, Ferulic Acid, Arginine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Palmitoyl Sh-Heptapeptide-12 Sp, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Pullulan, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone, Sodium Phytate, Diglycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Silica, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Decyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Chloride, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
This ingredient is a combination of two AHAs, lactic acid and glycolic acid. It has exfoliating properties
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
We don't have a description for Polyvinyl Alcohol yet.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.