Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

PCA Skin Detoxifying Mask Versus Eve Lom Rescue Mask

PCA Skin Detoxifying Mask Versus Eve Lom Rescue Mask This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Charcoal Powder for a rinse-off oil-control boost. This wash off mask is made with Kaolin for a rinse-off oil-control boost. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits

PCA Skin Detoxifying Mask Versus Eve Lom Rescue Mask

This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Charcoal Powder for a rinse-off oil-control boost.

This wash off mask is made with Kaolin for a rinse-off oil-control boost.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Kaolin

Charcoal Powder

Glycerin

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Citric Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hexylene Glycol

Disodium EDTA

Water, Kaolin, Charcoal Powder, Glycerin, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA

Alcohol Denat.

Mel

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal

Camphor

Calcium Chloride

Magnesium Chloride

Sodium Chloride

Aluminum Chlorohydrate

Allantoin

Kaolin, Water, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Mel, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal, Phenoxyethanol, Camphor, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Calcium Chloride, Magnesium Chloride, Sodium Chloride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aluminum Chlorohydrate, Allantoin

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Kaolin is a clay. It is used for oil control and to help minimize pores. Like other clays, kaolin has the ability to absorb excess sebum or oil. This can help clean out pores and mattify the skin.

Some types of kaolin may have exfoliating properties. When water is added to kaolin, it becomes a paste with small abrasive particles.

Most kaolin is a white color, but may be pink/orange/red depending on where it comes from.

The name 'kaolin' comes from a Chinese village named 'Gaoling'. Kaolin clay comes from rocks rich in kaolinite. Kaolinite, the mineral, has a silicate layered structure. Kaolinite is formed from chemical weathering of aluminum siilicate minerals.

Besides skincare, kaolin is commonly used to make glossy paper, in ceramics, toothpaste, and as medicine to soothe stomach issues.

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate is a type of silica. It comes from naturally occuring minerals such as silicate ores and clay.

Magnesium aluminum silicate is used for enhancing texture and as an absorbent. Due to its large molecular size, it is unable to be absorbed into the skin.

Like other types of silica, this ingredient can be used to thicken a product. As an absorbent, it may be used to absorb extra water or help prevent clumping.

Although “aluminum” in an ingredient name can raise red flags for some consumers, the form and usage context matter significantly. For typical topical applications, there is no substantial evidence of health risks - such as cancer, neurotoxicity, or systemic “aluminum overload.”

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Alcohol Denat.
  3. 03Hamamelis Virginiana Water
  4. 04Lactic Acid
  5. 05Butylene Glycol
  6. 06Kojic Acid
  7. 07Azelaic Acid
  8. 08Alcohol
  9. 09Hydroxyethylcellulose
  10. 10Phenylethyl Resorcinol
  11. 11BHT
  12. 12Glutathione
  13. 13Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract
  14. 14Water, Alcohol Denat., Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Lactic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Kojic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Alcohol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, BHT, Glutathione, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract
  15. 15Paraffinum Liquidum
  16. 16Cysteamine Hcl
  17. 17Niacinamide
  18. 18Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
  19. 19Glyceryl Stearate
  20. 20Lecithin
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

PCA Skin Clinicalm™ 1%

PCA Skin Clinicalm™ 1% PCA Skin Clinicalm™ 1% ingredients explained: Hydrocortisone (1%), Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Alcohol Denat, Cetearyl Olivate, Squalane, Olea Euro…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

PCA Skin Facial Wash

PCA Skin Facial Wash PCA Skin Facial Wash ingredients explained: Water/Aqua/Eau, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Saccharomyces Ferment…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side